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Thread: Console to PC Questions

  1. #76
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    I'm beginning to believe the Motherboard is the biggest obstacle yet lol.

    I've looked through various boards, ranging from the low end prices to the ridiculous prices. Thankfully in their description Ive learned whether or not it was compatible with the I7 or not. Off the top of my head, the I7 Coffee Lake is considered the 9th Gen I believe.

    Is 850w power supply considered low end for you all? Should I go higher just to be safe or for other reasons?

    I'm still in debate of a GPU, though Nvidia will probably be my route unless I'm convinced otherwise. Just depends on how much I'm willing to sink into that and what the final cost will.end up being.

    Cooling fans. After reviewing the I7 Coffee Lake, apparently it doesn't come with a cooling fan? Figures lol, so I got to ask, how do you know how many cooling fans you need? Do you over do it, or guess?

    Anyway, the hunt continues and I Co tinge to appreciate the responses from everyone.

  2. #77
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    I see the chipset is kind of getting to you, I always had a problem with northbridge southbridge differences but it is not that important. Choosing a chipset for your CPU and RAM can just be features, such as 1 or 2 M2 slots, 4 3.0 USB ports compared to 6 3.0 USB ports, better sound features such as 7.1 or 5.1 audio, also how many Sata ports.

    I would just look for what you want:

    Do you care a lot about onboard sound: check the onboard sound chipset in a review.
    You should not need more than 6 Sata 6.0 ports.
    you should try and shoot for 2 M2 slots for upgrading later on.
    You should not need more than 2 16x PCI express slots and a 1x to 4x PCI Express for later expansion.
    You should try and get a max RAM of 64, while its not that important for a long while but it does give you some headroom for later.
    I would not bother with overclocking too much as guppycur says it not that important to have great overclock options for a first time build and most motherboards will let you overclock just a little without worrying about anything overclockers do, including voltage and watercooling.

    Then google the chipsset and look mainly for reliability over slight performance. You really do not need that $700.00 Asus board. A lot of brands of motherboards look to reliability over performance like Asus with their "tuf" thing they have. So read some reviews on newegg and check out the chipset according to the socket for reliability. Your CPU will gauge performance along with the amount and speed of RAM the motherboard just throws out features catering to ether performance or reliability and also each one adds a little of this or that, like 4 3.0 USB ports where one will 8 Sata ports and so on.

    There is a few things to think about,
    The MSI MicroATX motherboard has a 8 pin ATX plug and a 6 Pin ATX plug and I checked a lot of power supplies and there is usually an 8 pin and or a 4 + 4 pin cable. So check to see the plugs that are needed.You will get the 20+4 or the 24 pin every motherboard needs but I guess now there is 2 ATX power plugs, do not buy one with a 6 pin plug, it will be hard to find a 6 pin cable on a power supply.

    Also try and find a motherboard with good placement for the RAM, this will help you upgrade your ram without removing your heatsink

    I hope I did not confuse you or anything, its just something to be aware of.

    I used to check this out: https://www.newegg.com/tools/power-s...B&gclsrc=aw.ds just add 100 or so more wattage and you will be safe but as you said it would be better to have a higher wattage power supply than a low wattage one. I know this from experience when I bought a crappy PS and it would not keep my PC running.

    From the picture I uploaded I have a massive 1200 watt power supply and while I know its not necessary for the PC I have it was for a better PC I had before and why not be safe than sorry in the power supply pick. Its a bummer when you look at you voltages and you see low dips and it can get to the point of where your PC will shut down.
    Last edited by bobrpggamer; 4 Weeks Ago at 12:11 AM.

  3. #78
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jysen View Post
    I'm beginning to believe the Motherboard is the biggest obstacle yet lol.

    I've looked through various boards, ranging from the low end prices to the ridiculous prices. Thankfully in their description Ive learned whether or not it was compatible with the I7 or not. Off the top of my head, the I7 Coffee Lake is considered the 9th Gen I believe.

    Is 850w power supply considered low end for you all? Should I go higher just to be safe or for other reasons?

    I'm still in debate of a GPU, though Nvidia will probably be my route unless I'm convinced otherwise. Just depends on how much I'm willing to sink into that and what the final cost will.end up being.

    Cooling fans. After reviewing the I7 Coffee Lake, apparently it doesn't come with a cooling fan? Figures lol, so I got to ask, how do you know how many cooling fans you need? Do you over do it, or guess?

    Anyway, the hunt continues and I Co tinge to appreciate the responses from everyone.
    Man, you are really overthinking this. Buying a PC is not rocket science. In reality a more expensive motherboard might give you 1% more speed (or not). And you will never ever notice that 1% while playing. Most features of a more expensive motherboard are for overclocking stuff or blinking LEDs or stuffing 8 hard disks into the PC.

    Power supply, I have a 500W supply in mine and it works flawlessly. 850W is for DUAL-CPU configurations, it doesn't hurt, you just spend more money to be able to add a second graphics card later without upgrading the power supply.

    GPU: Nvidia is the ♥♥♥♥ty lying company but has the slightly better GPUs if you look at power draw and it has the top range GPUs for too much money. Also nvidia has the advantage that game developers test more on nvidia than amd (because of market share).
    If you go for the performance of a 2080, nvidia is your only choice, if you buy below that the difference between AMD and nvidia is mostly irrelevant.

    Cooling fans is just about the noise. You want low noise, get a cooling solution that costs you about $40 or more, there are a lot of review sites that compare coolers if you want to go into detail.

  4. #79
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    Quote Originally Posted by meganoth View Post
    Man, you are really overthinking this. Buying a PC is not rocket science. In reality a more expensive motherboard might give you 1% more speed (or not). And you will never ever notice that 1% while playing. Most features of a more expensive motherboard are for overclocking stuff or blinking LEDs or stuffing 8 hard disks into the PC.

    Power supply, I have a 500W supply in mine and it works flawlessly. 850W is for DUAL-CPU configurations, it doesn't hurt, you just spend more money to be able to add a second graphics card later without upgrading the power supply.

    GPU: Nvidia is the ♥♥♥♥ty lying company but has the slightly better GPUs if you look at power draw and it has the top range GPUs for too much money. Also nvidia has the advantage that game developers test more on nvidia than amd (because of market share).
    If you go for the performance of a 2080, nvidia is your only choice, if you buy below that the difference between AMD and nvidia is mostly irrelevant.

    Cooling fans is just about the noise. You want low noise, get a cooling solution that costs you about $40 or more, there are a lot of review sites that compare coolers if you want to go into detail.
    I have no Idea how, with headphones on, the sound of fans is really important, if you sleep next to you PC like I have for most of my life then I can understand the noise complaint, otherwise with a good set of headphones you will never hear those fans while you are gaming or listening to your MP3 collection. Of course if you use a HTPC type setup, well then the noise could be an issue.

    I agree you do not need a overpowered power supply, but your 850watt power supply is a good choice, I think anyway. In PC building, a low powered power supply is a gamble you should not take and 850 will cover you plenty, especially with a single card and not to many peripherals like hard drives and fans and other things that you probably will not need attached to your power supply cables.

    I have 2 Sata controllers, 8 80mm fans, a sound card, 8 Sata drives and a GTX 1080 so I would probably want 900-1000 watt power supply for my setup. If you figure the cost difference with a power supply from 600 to 850 watts is about $20.00-$30.00 so you might as well be safe and making this easily being the cheapest costing upgrade to decide on while working on cost effective parts in your PC.

    I forgot to mention that you should have a backup and storage drive and do not hold all of your files on 1 M2 drive. Even if you have an external drive this drive will not lose files during an operating system problem. A 2tb SATA 6.0Gb/s drive will be good to hold your important files for backup.

    Here is a few drives listed as cheapest for 1-2tb drives https://www.newegg.com/p/pl?N=100167...16&Order=PRICE you really do not have to have something with 5 eggs, just look for something about 4 eggs and up and check some reviews and how many reviews.

    This is really not meant to add more confusion but I think everyone would agree a separate drive from you OS is good to have.

    Well maybe you could hold off on it for a while and just get your PC built and then a couple of months later add a backup drive and of course you could partition your SSD into 2 or more partitions but I still believe a backup drive is important.
    Last edited by bobrpggamer; 4 Weeks Ago at 05:33 PM.

  5. #80
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    Trust me, I know I was over thinking it when I would think about it lol. But, that might have to do with the fact that I'm looking way ahead of time before I buy anything. Too much time on my hands per say lol

    It ain't rocket science, that I agree. But I still prefer to use some caution. Plus, I was learning along the way, which results in a more solid conclusion for me lol.

    It's still much time before I end up buying anything, so it's all window shopping at this point for me. But when that moment comes, I'll be ready lol

  6. #81
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    I think you have the right idea looking at your original wishlist, so if you got the time, be sure to read as many reviews and benchmarks as you can, or if your like me just watch some YouTube reviews if you do not want to read 10 pages of a review on a part. Sometime you will see a roundup of parts and it will give you a general idea of which one is better in a price/performance point of view.
    Last edited by bobrpggamer; 4 Weeks Ago at 01:25 AM.

  7. #82
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    Whew... 7 items, $1414 bucks total lol.

    Found a Motherboard for like $130. Figured I save it and look at it close later. I'm not sure yet if I'll go full on keyboard/mouse, or attempt to continue to use a controller. So not sure if it has Bluetooth or I'll need to install one.

    I went with a Mid Tower. Like $80 bucks, but quite a lot of positive reviews. My only question would be as it has only 1 USB 3.0 port, cause that don't seem like enough down the road for anything.

    Decided to take a semi cut back and stick with the Nvidia GTX 2060. At $380 bucks, compared to 500 plus, I don't need ultra high 4k crap on a regular HDTV anyway lol.

    I do question fans, cause not sure if I'll need additional support in that regard. The case stated there's room to add in multiple 120mm fans (I believe that's the right size), so hopefully I can avoid melting it lol.

    Like I said, got plenty of time still before choosing a route. Who knows, maybe I'll find a different route that's cheaper, or most likely more expensive. Back in '99, when Gateway was the top dog, I went to their site and built one. Would've been $3500 lol. Soo yeah... Me and Technology can get expensive really quick if I'm not being over cautious lol

  8. #83
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    Well the case has just the USB for the front usually and you have to have the cable for the USB in the case to attach it to the USB header on the motherboard. Your motherboard will have at least 6 USB usually on the back panel so you just use the front USB for convenience.

    let me know what case you have in mind and I can give you an idea as to if you need additional case fans. Usually you could get by with a decent powered 120mm fan in front and one in the back and then have the heatsink/fan for the CPU blow the hot air directly out the rear fan. Without overclocking and a relatively cool CPU and a lower powered GPU like the 2060 you will have plenty of airflow with the 2 120mm fans in front and back. Which brings me to another thing, airflow and cables, you should use as little cables as you need and try to route the cables in a way that they do not block the airflow from the front case fan. This is a terrible example because this PC was a backup PC and I spent as little time as possible to route the cables, but you can see the cables are as far way as possible in the front to allow my 2 80mm fans in front to blow air through the case https://i.imgur.com/55lcmBt.jpg you just need some zip ties or bread bag ties and try to minimize the amount of cables from being all over the case impeding airflow.

    I have a lot of cable that you will not need so don't pay too much attention to the picture as far as cables.

    You will have at least these cables:

    From the Power Supply:
    1 24 pin motherboard cable
    1 PCI Express cable
    1 ATX motherboard cable

    If you get a fully modular power supply you will hardly have any cables to worry about airflow - as you can see in the photo I have a cluster of cables bunched up above the power supply.

    In your case:
    the USB header for the front USB port on your case

    Your fans will have a cable you could attach to your motherboard and these cable are not very big so no need to worry about them getting in the way.

    I cannot believe I used to have UV light bars in this case when I first got it, a phase I thankfully got over, I hope.
    Last edited by bobrpggamer; 4 Weeks Ago at 08:33 AM.

  9. #84
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    Cooler Master HAF 912 - Mid Tower Computer Case with High Airflow, Supporting up to Six 120mm Fans and USB 3.0

    5 Egg rating with over 3000 reviews. Figure something must be good lol

  10. #85
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jysen View Post
    Cooler Master HAF 912 - Mid Tower Computer Case with High Airflow, Supporting up to Six 120mm Fans and USB 3.0

    5 Egg rating with over 3000 reviews. Figure something must be good lol
    It has the usual 1 fan in back and 1 fan in front so I think you will be OK without buying more fans, just buy as good of a CPU fan/heatsink as you can and you should be fine and if later you see your temps are high then you can add more fans. I do stress that you should but the best CPU fan/heatsink you can afford.

    Also about every 6 months you should take a shop vac and or air compressor and blow the dust out of your case and your fans look like they are not LED lighted so just check them here and there to make sure they are working. The good thing with LED fans is they are easy to tell if they are working.

    I have a cousin that had a PC I was working on for him, adding some ram and a hard drive and when I opened up the case the back case fan was on the bottom of his case and not working, which was crazy to me but I am a computer guy and he wasn't. He also had enough dust to clog a sink drain in his power supply and pretty much his entire case was a mess so I cleaned it for him. So just keep your PC clean of as much dust as possible and your PC will keep running fine.

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ded8DNlY1zA

    You do not really need to clean the fan blades, but replacing them in a year or so is a good idea and 120mm fans are about $10.00 anyway. Fans do have a MTBF thing, meaning "Mean Time Before Failing" this a certain amount of time when you can expect your fans to stop working, but a year of use is fine before replacing them.
    Last edited by bobrpggamer; 3 Weeks Ago at 06:37 AM.

  11. #86
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    Yeah, the dust is my biggest fear, but it'd be one of those things I simply maintain and should be fine.

    Now just for complete clarification on my part, when you mention CPU fan, is that an additional component over the fan that's with the power supply? Or am I confused as usual on what should be simple lol

    EVGA SuperNOVA 850 G+, 80 Plus Gold 850W, Fully Modular, FDB Fan, 10 Year Warranty, Includes Power ON Self Tester, Power Supply 120-GP-0850-X1

    That's what I added into my cart awhile back, 850w should be plenty for power, and what got me was when I looked at the I7 Coffee Lake, it stayed there was no fan that came with it. Will this be all I need, or do I need to find an additional fan?

  12. #87
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jysen View Post
    Yeah, the dust is my biggest fear, but it'd be one of those things I simply maintain and should be fine.

    Now just for complete clarification on my part, when you mention CPU fan, is that an additional component over the fan that's with the power supply? Or am I confused as usual on what should be simple lol

    EVGA SuperNOVA 850 G+, 80 Plus Gold 850W, Fully Modular, FDB Fan, 10 Year Warranty, Includes Power ON Self Tester, Power Supply 120-GP-0850-X1

    That's what I added into my cart awhile back, 850w should be plenty for power, and what got me was when I looked at the I7 Coffee Lake, it stayed there was no fan that came with it. Will this be all I need, or do I need to find an additional fan?
    Yeah you really need to know about a CPU fan if you don't. Here is some for your motherboard socket: https://www.newegg.com/p/pl?N=100168...5&Order=RATING the ZALMAN CNPS9500 AT 2 Ball CPU Cooling Fan/Heatsink is a great fan at $32.00 and I have used them often, you can see that in the picture below I am using this or similar zalman as my CPU fan/heatsink https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5EqEHVsnqLk or newer review here https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_6baCHJxQCI

    Here would be the basic procedure for a third party fan: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=38TE8l0qFFI

    You could get by with the stock fan I guess but your temps will be high in gaming https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Hv7P2iL0Kig

    The I7 Coffee Lake CPUs come with a fan in the package no need to buy one but they are really not that good. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=G8wY8ir-wZE

    I hope that helps.

    Here is your case more in depth that you picked out: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rv7mFfWhERY

    Gaming ranks up there with video encoding and professional graphics and sound applications on stressing your CPU, meaning higher temps on your CPU, its not great for your case to be hot inside because this effects your motherboard, video card and even your PSU. So you could get by with the stock Intel CPU fan but it is generally better to have a good CPU fan/heatsink which will lower the temps in your case. The good CPU fan/heatsinks are designed to blow the heat from the CPU out your back case fan rather than accumulating heat inside your case. Look at the copper CPU fan/heatsink in my case and how it blows to the rear and out the 2 case fans in the back of the case https://i.imgur.com/55lcmBt.jpg

    You could argue that adding more case fans and using the stock Intel fan would be just as good. I just suggest to invest in a good CPU fan/heatsink myself, but its up to you

    Oh yeah, be sure the fan you pick blows the right direction which is to the back of the case, yeah you want to do that.

    Come to think of it this whole building a PC thing makes some people think that PC gamers think or are elite gamers, due to all the custom builds with advanced lighting, water-cooling and overclocking. You can look at it however you want but when your PC boots up and you install your operating system and benchmark your PC, you will be proud of what you did and you will be thinking about your next build and how much better it will be with the experience you have on your first.

    Wall of text again.
    Last edited by bobrpggamer; 3 Weeks Ago at 08:14 AM.

  13. #88
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    So, here's the final look at the moment. Total cost is still around $1450, but I believe it's everything I need lol.

    ZALMAN CNPS9500 AT 2 Ball CPU Cooling Fan/Heatsink

    Cooler Master HAF 912 - Mid Tower Computer Case with High Airflow, Supporting up to Six 120mm Fans and USB 3.0

    MSI GeForce RTX 2060 DirectX 12 RTX 2060 GAMING Z 6G 6GB 192-Bit GDDR6 PCI Express 3.0 x16 HDCP Ready Video Card

    MSI PRO Z390-A PRO LGA 1151 (300 Series) Intel Z390 SATA 6Gb/s USB 3.1 ATX Intel Motherboard

    EVGA SuperNOVA 850 G+, 80 Plus Gold 850W, Fully Modular, FDB Fan, 10 Year Warranty, Includes Power ON Self Tester, Power Supply 120-GP-0850-X1

    G.SKILL TridentZ RGB Series 32GB (2 x 16GB) 288-Pin DDR4 SDRAM DDR4 3200 (PC4 25600) Desktop Memory Model F4-3200C16D-32GTZR

    SAMSUNG 970 EVO M.2 2280 1TB PCIe Gen3. X4, NVMe 1.3 64L V-NAND 3-bit MLC Internal Solid State Drive (SSD) MZ-V7E1T0BW

    Intel Core i7-9700K Coffee Lake 8-Core 3.6 GHz (4.9 GHz Turbo) LGA 1151 (300 Series) 95W BX80684I79700K Desktop Processor Intel UHD Graphics 630

  14. #89
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    Seems like you have picked out a nice PC to build, just be sure to upload pics of your PC when you get around to building it. You could buy some Artic Silver 5 thermal paste if you want, its cheap and will help keep your CPU cool https://www.newegg.com/arctic-silver...B&gclsrc=aw.ds

    I almost forgot, you will need your OS of course, you can buy Windows 10 OEM at newegg unless you use linux https://www.newegg.com/d/Microsoft-O...at/ID-1149-368 I use the home version and it should be fine for gaming, I honestly do not even know what the Pro version has that makes it any better. You could scour the web for the lowest price on this, but it would be better getting it from a good retailer like newegg, I don't even recommend getting from Amazon to be honest, getting a copy that will pop up as not being genuine will more than likely ruin your day. Luckily installing a new OS like windows 10 is the easiest part you will need to do when building your PC.

    When you build you should always ground yourself by touching your power supply constantly before handling your parts. Some people use a static grounding wire on your wrist, I usually just make sure I ground myself before I touch the RAM and other parts by touching the power supply - I learned this from Maximum PC many years ago.

    Of course you should download drivers:
    Motherboard: https://www.msi.com/Motherboard/supp...ver&Win10%2064
    Video Card: https://www.nvidia.com/Download/index.aspx

    Other downloads:
    Core Temp https://www.alcpu.com/CoreTemp/
    Prime95 https://www.guru3d.com/files-details...-download.html

    The fun stuff after a build is benchmarking. First try Prime95 to check that your components are going to be cool when you game, let that run for an hour or more and check your temps with Core Temp, check online to see the max temps for the CPU and make sure you stay well below this while in Prime95, this will also check to see if the RAM and voltages are OK as well - by basically stress testing you will see if your build will be reliable during gaming before you install your games.

    Benchmarks:
    3DMark https://benchmarks.ul.com/3dmark
    cinebench https://www.maxon.net/en-us/support/downloads/

    I do not use Cinebench because I have 4 game benchmarks I use, including STALKER Call of Pripyat, Crysis, Metro Last Light Redux and Quake 3 (just for a laugh) but you need to buy the games to use the benchmarks so you could just use 3Dmark and Cinebench to check out your PC's perforrmance.

    Then, finally you get to install steam and 7 Days to Die and play like a big dog.

    Other than your Video Card, Your PC far outmatches mine so you should be able to play 7 Days with higher settings and better FPS.

    You must be using a PC to post here so you could save some time and download all your drivers and utilities and put them on a Thumb-drive to be ready when you install windows, which is always a good practice.
    Last edited by bobrpggamer; 3 Weeks Ago at 06:32 AM.

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    Unfortunately it seems I'm still going to be quite some time away before I'll finally be able to upgrade. It would almost be frustrating, but I still have big ambitions on my current game to keep me occupied lol.

    And to be honest, I really don't know about A18 and where I actually stand on the matter. Some aspects sound great, like the mining having a recognizable boulder, but then I'm also not liking the way they've negated crafting in many ways.

    Though it is in experimental and undoubtedly will change again, but the direction they're heading might be worth it in the end. Then again, if I can still play say A16 even after its considered finished, then maybe it will still be worth it lol.

    What does suck is not being able to play it personally and having a 1st hand experience with it. But that day will arrive no doubt, thankfully I have a strong will in patience lol

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